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Maui and Kauai Day 6: Here Be Dragons

Whosoever shall complete this labyrinth shall get a Fig Newton. -Catherine

rain 88 °F

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Started our day by snorkeling near our hotel. We saw a lot of interesting fish. The waves started to get a bit choppy as we swam, possibly due to the hurricanes nearby (which are predicted to go north and south of the islands, respectively.) There were also strong winds and dark clouds in the sky.
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Us at the beach.
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A coconut tree by the beach. We couldn’t ascertain whether it was hostile or not.
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After snorkeling we went up to our room for a lunch on our balcony.
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We then drove up to Kapalua for a rugged hike...
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...which began with a harrowing journey across the Ritz-Carlton property.
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And then proceeded along a golf course before actually becoming at all rugged.
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A palm tree and its shadow.
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We hiked out along one of the peninsulas that guards Kapalua Bay.
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This area is called the Dragon’s Teeth. Catherine thought it looked more like a dragon’s spine.
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Us during the hike.
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Some views along the way.
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It was very windy.
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We found this labyrinth, which Daniel completed and Catherine also “completed” by stepping over the barriers into the middle of the maze.
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The end of the peninsula.
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Us at the edge.
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Some pictures of the waves breaking on the rocks.
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This one really shows the “dragon’s teeth” effect of the rocks.
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Some pictures around the resort.
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We then went in to Lahaina and had dinner at Lahainaluna Café. Catherine got a grilled cheese with bacon and Daniel tried the kalua pork sandwich. We shared fries and Maui onion straws. Both were delicious.
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No trip to Lahaina is complete without a visit to Lahaina Printsellers. Two years ago we bought a beautiful map of the Hawaiian Islands, a reproduction of one made by the Lahainaluna printing press which was the first map of Hawaii in Hawaiian. We had also had a long conversation with Bob, the salesman there who is an expert on maps. This time was almost exactly the same, except that this time we bought a map of the Azores made by the Society for the Dissemination of Useful Knowledge. They were dedicated to providing accurate information, and thus avoid adding any dragons, Sea-monsters, etc.
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We ended our night at Kimo’s, where a few employees seemed to be hanging out at the end of the day, and we had the opportunity to hear the bartender’s increasingly improbable suggestions for how to avoid large corporate chains and eat, drink, and buy local.

We have loved our time here in Maui but can’t wait to join our family in Kaua’i tomorrow.

Posted by danielcatherine 02:13 Archived in USA Tagged maps snorkeling storms lahaina dragons teeth hurricanes kimo’s lahainaluna_cafe Comments (0)

Maui and Kaua’i Day 4: Tricks and Treats

all seasons in one day 91 °F

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We got up and went straight to Julia’s Best Banana Bread stand. Last time we were here we loved their bread, and we had to go back. The man at the stand told us he was going to show us “a trick and a treat.” The treat was banana bread samples.
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The trick was that he yells “hup hup hup” and throws pieces of bread, which causes a mongoose feeding frenzy. One of our fellow customers at the stand had never seen a mongoose, and thought they were rats. The man at the stand explained that they’re “like Rikki-Tikki-Tavi.” We bought two loaves of banana bread, some passionfruit lemonade, some passionfruit butter, and some dried mango slices with li hing mui powder. Then we headed for the blowhole.
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We went a bit too far, and saw some beautiful places beyond the blowhole.
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Our Jeep.
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The wind at the blowhole is always incredible, and so are the views. We didn’t stay too long, having seen it before, but we were glad we went.
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Next we went to Honolua Bay, where after a short hike through the forest we arrived...
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...at the most amazing snorkeling location we’ve found. There were three diving boats in the bay, and lots of people snorkeling from the shore. We saw a lot of fish and, most amazingly, a small sea turtle! We’ve never snorkeled here without seeing a turtle.
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We went back to our room and had lunch after snorkeling. We had our leftover musubi, chips, some Julia’s banana bread, and the passionfruit lemonade. After that we headed to Upcountry!
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We stopped at Maui Wine for wine tasting and admiring the beautiful views from the cottage where King Kalakaua stayed. While there we had a nice conversation with a couple who had moved to Maui from Chicago, as well as an employee who was studying to become a teacher. Catherine recognized his surname as a Portuguese name, and he said his ancestors were from Madeira. We talked a bit with him and then headed back to Ka’anapali.
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Some Upcountry Maui views. It looks a lot like the Azores, and in fact many of the Portuguese people who came to Hawaii seem to have settled in this area.
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As we drove we talked to Catherine’s parents and got an update on Flora, who is doing very well and playing happily at their house like she does at ours.
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On our way back we stopped at the Maui Pineapple Store in Lahaina. Catherine went in, and the cashier asked her if, in addition to the pineapples we were buying we would like some fresh cut pineapple. Catherine accepted the offer, and we ate this delicious pineapple. After that, we went to have dessert at our hotel.

Posted by danielcatherine 01:25 Archived in USA Tagged turtles king wine pineapples snorkeling lahaina honolua bread portuguese kalakaua upcountry julia’s Comments (4)

Maui and Kaua’i Day 2: Rolling Down to Old Maui

all seasons in one day 94 °F

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Daniel’s parents dropped us off at the San Jose airport, where security seemed especially tight (we all had to walk in twos by a dog, etc.) We got on the plane and began our journey to Maui.
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We bought these delicious snack-packs on the plane. They really were good. We had them with the free drink that came with our “premium” economy: we chose Prosecco to toast our trip.
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When we got to Maui we went and got our rental car. We had arranged to have a Jeep, but when we got to the counter they said we could pick whichever Jeep we wanted from the lot. There were three grey ones and one red one. Daniel guessed correctly that Catherine would choose the red one.
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We drove to the food trucks near the airport, where we had hoped to go to the Thai food truck (Thai Mee Up). It was closed on Sundays, so we went to a different nearby place that we had planned to go to during our trip: Tasty Crust in Wailuku. It’s a wonderful, welcoming, and delicious restaurant that we highly recommend. Daniel got a waffle and Catherine got the banana pancakes. We split the linguiça, hash browns, and corn bread. Everything was wonderful and a great start to our time in Maui.
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After our brunch we drove to Ka’anapali, where we are staying. We have a beautiful view of the ocean and the island of Lana’i, and our room is wonderful.
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We went to mass at Maria Lanakila church in Lāhainā. It was a nice mass, and a beautiful church. Lanakila means “victorious,” and Maria Lanakila is thus “Our Lady of Victory.”
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We looked at the graveyard next to the church and prayed for the people buried there. It was interesting seeing the mix of last names: Hawaiian, Portuguese, Italian, Filipino, and more. One grave belonged to a man who (assuming he was born in Hawaii) would have been born in an independent kingdom and died in a US State.
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When we got back to our hotel we went swimming in the pool (while it rained) and then had dinner at the poolside bar/restaurant. Daniel had Maui onion soup and Catherine had kalua pork sliders. It was a delicious dinner and a great end to our first day in Maui.

Posted by danielcatherine 16:03 Archived in USA Tagged view ocean maui swimming security plane lahaina snacks prosecco maria_lanakila tasty_crust ka’anapali Comments (2)

Hawaii Day 7: Wine in the House of a King

semi-overcast 83 °F

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Today, Katie and Anthony had to fly back home. We got ready a little bit earlier to take them to the airport, but thankfully their flight was at a reasonable time and we were able to have a nice breakfast. Daniel prepared one of our pineapples from the plantation tour, and Katie and Anthony went on a walk and returned with malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts) from a nearby bakery. We had a nice breakfast, then helped them pack and drove to the airport. We had lunch at the same food truck court as we did on our first day, then dropped them off at the airport. Although we are excited about our next few days here, we were sad to see them go. We had a lot of fun snorkeling, hiking, and playing cards with them. It has been a wonderful trip so far.
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After dropping them off, we decided to see the town of Paia. It was an interesting little town, but seemed to consist of nothing but women's clothing shops. Eventually we found a souvenir shop where we got a print of three sea turtles.90_BBA21CA3-F..232A2F97E52.jpg90_1D921ED5-8..A1D4D63A832.jpg9FB338B3-2..B75AD6F78B1.jpg
We also found a shave ice place. Catherine got blue vanilla and fruit punch, and Daniel got "mounds," which consisted of coconut flavoring, chocolate syrup, and macadamia nut ice cream. After we finished there, we decided to go to a wine tasting at a winery that Daniel had heard about. They use Maui Gold pineapples for some of their wine, and have tastings in a building that was used as a residence by King David Kalakaua, who wrote the book Daniel is reading. It was towards the other side of the island, along the southern slopes of Haleakala, so we had to drive a little ways.
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Holy Rosary Church in Paia. It is a very beautiful church. We just happened to drive past it, but we decided to stop in and take a look. It was completely open, and there were a couple other people visiting it as well.
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Outside of the church is a shrine to St. Damian of Molokai. There is a great deal of interest in, and devotion to, this saint in Hawaii for his selfless care of the people suffering from leprosy who were housed in a colony on the island of Molokai. As we continued our way, we came upon...
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...another church! This one is amazing. It is called Holy Ghost Church, and is built in a unique octagonal style. It was the parish for the Portuguese community, who traditionally have a great devotion to the Holy Ghost.
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Pictures of the inside of the church. There is a beautiful altar, and the Stations of the Cross were carved in Europe and have inscriptions in Portuguese. The information book inside the church suggested that the octagonal shape was either based on the design of the original crown of St. Elizabeth (or Isabella) of Portugal, or simply that it was architecturally strong in the high winds the area gets.
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The dome.
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The view from the church.
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As we drove into Upcountry Maui, we started encountering mist and this verdant landscape, complete with rock walls. If it weren't for the heat and the lava rocks used for the rock walls, we would have thought we were in Ireland!
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Some views of the beautiful winery. It was a perfect place to go: it was cooler than the lower areas of the island, and the wind was more like a pleasant breeze. There were several interesting trees and other plants, and the setting was so incredibly different from the rest of the island that we've seen.
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This land belonged in the 1800s to Captain Makee, from Boston. He was friends with King Kalakaua, who at one point was his guest. It was seen as inappropriate for the king to stay in a house with commoners, so a cottage was built for the king's use on their land. This is the house, and this circle of statues sits on the stumps of the trees that ringed Kalakaua's hula grounds, where dancers would perform while he and guests watched from the porch.
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The small museum at the tasting room. The pictures show the entire story of the lands, from the first purchase by the Captain, to the King's stay, to the use of Maui wine at President Reagan's inauguration, to the present day. It was a fascinating story. They had a complimentary tasting, and we purchased a bottle of the pineapple wine.
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We had a wonderful time! Afterwards, we went back to the hotel, then got ready to go to dinner and watch the sunset in Lahaina. We went to an Italian restaurant, which had delicious pizza and bruschetta. The pictures of the sunset seem unbelievable, but they look exactly like what we actually saw. After dinner, we walked around Lahaina a bit, then stopped at a grocery store to prepare for our drive to Hana tomorrow morning!
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Posted by danielcatherine 02:32 Archived in USA Tagged churches sunset airport museum dinner cottage wine lahaina portuguese hula food_trucks shave_ice kalakaua reagan lizard_count:12 Comments (1)

Hawaii Day 3: Bug Free's the Way to Be

sunny 86 °F

This morning, Catherine called to "battle" with the rental car company. They said at first that we would have to bring the car all the way back to Kahului to exchange it for another car. There was a sister company in Lahaina which had cars they could give us, but a variety of paperwork problems prevented it. So in the end, Catherine's parents drove all the way around the north-west side of the island to exchange cars. Thankfully, the new car appears to be bug-free.
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While they journeyed around the island in search of a new car, we had a relaxing lunch of pizza from the poolside restaurant. We sat at a table overlooking the ocean.
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After lunch, we went for a walk and sat by the beach. These pictures show the view of Lanai and Molokai. We also saw some land in the distance that might be a faint view of Oahu. It is a beautiful view.
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After our walk, we had a ukulele lesson! The class was interesting, and we learned how to play several songs. We are interested in obtaining a ukulele so that we can continue to learn.
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Afterwards, we went to Lahaina for the Old Lahaina Luau. These pictures are us at the beginning, before dinner or the show. It's in a beautiful setting near the ocean.
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Catherine at the luau.
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The table at the luau, including taro and sweet potato chips.
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Views from our table.
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Catherine has been very excited to try poi. She read Hawaii by James Michener and felt like poi sounded like an interesting and potentially good food. This picture shows her very first taste of poi. "It tastes like nothing!" was her immediate reaction. It ended up being rather good with the kalua pork.
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Our plates of food. Everything was delicious. Daniel especially liked the laulau and the taro leaf stew, and Catherine loved the sweet potatoes and the kalua pork.
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The desserts. Brownies with hot pepper, lavender cookies, passion fruit bars, and haupia (a coconut-milk based custard that was delicious.)
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A toast.
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The dancers who performed, as well as a view of the stage towards the end of the night. The chanting, singing, and dancing were spectacular.
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Catherine and her dad with the waitress for our table. She was very helpful and gave us extra banana bread to take with us at the end! We had a great time at the luau. Afterwards, we went back to the room and re-taught Catherine's parents how to play 500. This was fun, except that some of us were having trouble staying awake.

Tomorrow we are visiting a pineapple plantation, where Maui Gold pineapples are grown. It is one of the last pineapple growers operating in Hawaii, and we are excited to learn more about it!

Posted by danielcatherine 02:28 Archived in USA Tagged car pizza lahaina hula luau chanting haupia laulau kalua_pork mai_tai Comments (2)

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