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Maui and Kaua’i Day 9: I Spy

With My Little Eye

overcast 85 °F

We started our day by going to mass at St. Raphael’s with Daniel’s grandma. St. Raphael’s is the oldest Catholic church on Kaua’i, but both times we’ve been there we’ve gone to mass in the new church building. It was nice but very hot and humid, to the point that Daniel and his grandma’s glasses fogged up when we got out of the car. After mass we bought some mango bread and some flowers from a fundraiser.
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We then went to Pizzetta in Koloa Town. Catherine got a slice of pizza and Daniel got penne pesto pasta. Daniel’s grandma had the caprese. It was a great lunch. We split a chocolate lava cake for dessert.
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A picture of the spaghetti harvest on the wall of the restaurant. Daniel has used this joke with his students for April Fool’s Day (that spaghetti grows on trees). We took a picture of this image that seems to support the joke.

After lunch we joined Daniel’s parents, his sister Hilary, and her kids Aubrey and Dalton who were having dessert and shopping at a nearby shopping center.
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Catherine and Aubrey playing “I Spy with my Little Eye.”6FD45D98-23F8-4246-B21F-F4A8CE404A56.jpeg
Aubrey leading the way while we play “I Spy.”
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Aubrey’s look of disbelief at our inability to spot the thing that she claimed to have spotted (a quarter mile away, completely invisible to her from where she was, and matching none of the description she gave us.)
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Daniel’s dad, Ed, with Dalton.
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Daniel with Aubrey.

Afterwards we went back to the house and finished watching the Mayo vs. Donegal match via GAAGo. We had tried to watch it yesterday but not been able to finish it. Mayo won and is going into the semi-finals against Dublin next week!

Then we went to Daniel’s Aunt Jackie and Uncle Peter’s house for their party. Each family on this trip is hosting a party night during the time we are here. Their theme was Asian fusion, and we had rice, noodles, teriyaki beef skewers, pineapple, watermelon, and pineapple upside down cake for dessert. It was a delicious meal. We spent time talking to Daniel’s family and enjoyed the first party.

Posted by danielcatherine 01:30 Archived in USA Tagged church party mango match bread mayo asian_fusion mass aubrey dalton i_spy_with_my_little_eye Comments (0)

Kauai Day 6: Malasadas, Shave Ice, and Mai Tais

semi-overcast 84 °F

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Today we went to mass at the oldest parish on Kauai, St. Raphael's. Unfortunately the mass time we attended was in the very modern new church rather than the old one. After mass we went to a bakery to get malasadas. Malasadas are, essentially, doughnuts. The word comes from Portuguese, and literally means "badly roasted" or incompletely cooked. We got one that was plain, one that was chocolate filled, and one that had a surprisingly good-tasting black bean paste.
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Afterwards we went to lunch in Koloa with Daniel's parents, Hilary, Aubrey, and Daniel's grandma. We had a very nice lunch together, and talked about the idea of going to Kauai again next year.
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After that, we went to get shave ice. Aubrey was trying it for the first time, and really liked it!
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After lunch and dessert we went to Kalapaki beach, where Duke's is located. We decided to rent a standing paddle board to try what that was like. Catherine preferred to swim, but Daniel went out for a bit on the board.
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It was fun, but a bit stressful learning to balance and stay up. It does feel very majestic to skid along the top of the waves.
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Mai tais and a light dinner at Duke's.
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Catherine has had at least one plumeria for her hair every day of this trip.
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When we got back to the house we went for a walk to Shipwreck Beach, which was beautiful. Tomorrow we have to leave, but we hope that we can come back soon!

Posted by danielcatherine 00:36 Archived in USA Tagged church mass aubrey mai_tai duke's shave_ice koloa paddleboard malasadas st._raphael's kalapaki Comments (0)

Portugal Day 17: Semana Do Mar

sunny 80 °F

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Walking to mass in the morning. We went to the church up the hill, which is newly renovated and open for the first time in over 20 years.
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The mass was very nice. Fr. Michael concelebrated, and was able to distribute communion and speak Portuguese enough to do so. An elderly woman in front of us had some health issues during the mass, which was a bit worrisome. The fire department came in and helped get her to medical attention.
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Underneath the church is a very nice grotto. We went down and said a prayer for the woman who was having trouble during the mass.
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Throughout Horta there are several monuments to this man, the Duke of Ávila and Bolama. He was born in the house next door to where we are staying.
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Later in the day we went to Castelo Branco to see the church where Anthony’s grandfather Antonio Furtado was baptized. Antonio left Faial when he was thirteen years old and never went back.
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We believe that this is the grave of an ancestor of that Antonio, maybe his father or grandfather.
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We went to lunch at Peter Cafe Sport, where Katie and Anthony tried the tuna and linguiça sandwich. We played it safer: Catherine got a steak and Daniel got chicken curry.
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We had been told that the procession would go by Peter’s, but we weren’t seeing it. Daniel went on a walk towards Porto Pim, but didn’t see any sign of the procession.
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Then, we saw we had been looking the wrong way. The processions started at sea!
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It continued on land. The priest from mass this morning gave a short homily in Portuguese, then they began processing with the statue and the marching band back towards Porto Pim. We watched for a while.
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We then went to the Semana do Mar festivities. It was a lot of fun. Our last night in Faial is somewhat bittersweet, but we have had a wonderful time.
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A delicious waffle and ice cream shop.
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Enjoying the festivities.
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Michael and Catherine convinced Daniel to wear all three of our commemorative Semana do Mar mugs, and then began to put coins in them.

Posted by danielcatherine 01:14 Archived in Portugal Tagged priest ships waffle tuna procession curry steak mass horta semana_do_mar porto_pim peters_cafe_sport linguiça Comments (0)

Portugal Day 14: To Donny!

all seasons in one day 69 °F

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Today we flew from São Miguel to Terceira, then from Terceira to Faial. We booked our flight along with Katie and Anthony, but when we got there they had a direct flight and we had a separate flight. We got on a plane that was bound for São Jorge, which was stopping in Terceira, and then had to get a different one that was heading to Faial. Katie and Anthony had to get on one bound for Faial, which was stopping in Terceira. They had to get off the plane on Terceira, go upstairs, then get back on the same plane. We all got to Faial nonetheless. It was an emotional experience for Catherine to see Faial, the island where her ancestors lived for hundreds of years.
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Some pictures of Horta and our house.
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Michael said that he was going to go to mass at a nearby church. He invited us to come with him to the 6 PM mass, and then set off. We followed and got to the extremely beautiful church.
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Michael ended up getting to concelebrate the mass. The priest from the parish, also young and newly ordained, is visiting California soon for a festa, but couldn’t remember where he is going.
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Afterwards, we went to the house where Catherine’s Aunt Marie (Sis) and Uncle Bob, and her Uncle John and Aunt Terri are staying. It has a weirdly placed oven, but also a nice pool. We got pizza delivered by a company called California Pizza (not California Pizza Kitchen), which is owned by a man from the Azores who used to live in Fremont. It was a very nice evening.
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After dinner we walked down to the waterfront. Horta is a major stopping point for yachts going across the Atlantic, and people often paint murals to celebrate their arrival here.
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A castle near the waterfront.
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We went to Peter’s Cafe Sport, famous for their Gin and Tonics and for being a popular spot for anyone who visits Faial, especially on ships. It was Don Santos’s birthday, and we had planned to meet him there and celebrate. We toasted a few times “to Donny!” before he arrived. Then, he arrived. When he walked in, we all raised our glasses and yelled “to Donny!” The customers at the other tables joined in (probably thinking that Donny had sailed here). Donny was so happy (his nephew Dominic told us that this had been his best birthday ever). We were sure that being in the land of his people and being toasted and proclaimed in the bar were very memorable experiences.
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Us with Anthony and Donny.
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The moon over Horta and Pico.

Posted by danielcatherine 08:11 Archived in Portugal Tagged church sao michael anthony katie miguel mass homeland gin faial donny to_donny peter’s gin_and_tonic Comments (1)

Portugal Day 9: Fátima, Nazaré, and a Princess of Óbidos

sunny 79 °F

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We had a quick breakfast at the hotel before going out on our bus tour to Fátima.
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Our first stop was the “factory” which was really a large store with a lot of religious and secular souvenirs. Apparently everything was made in Portugal, although most of it looked exactly like the souvenirs available at other shops. Catherine’s dad joked about turning over the tables like Jesus in the Temple.
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The beautiful older basilica and the square at Fatima. We had somewhat limited time, and the group wanted to go to Mass. There was a mass celebrated in Portuguese in “the basilica” which we hoped would be this one.
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Instead, it was this one. It was still inspiring to see how many people were at Mass and touring Fátima.
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The Apparition Chapel where the children first saw Our Lady. When we went by there was a mass going on outside the chapel.
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Some more pictures of the outside of the older basilica, where the visionaries are buried. They have a large area surrounded by walkways with statues of saints at the top, similar to the one at the Vatican.
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Inside the older basilica, where there seemed to be a wedding or renewal of vows going on. There is a strange, peaceful but momentous feeling inside this building.
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Catherine’s Aunt Teri and Uncle John in Fatima.
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Next, we went to Batalha, where we had lunch and saw the monastery. There is an equestrian statue of St. Nuno Álvares Pereira, who commanded some of the Portuguese forces in the war with Castile in the fourteenth century. Batalha was founded to commemorate the battle.
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Our tour guide suggested that we didn’t need to see the inside, that the outside was sufficient.
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We went in anyway. It was really beautiful. Catherine loved the gothic architecture, and it was interesting to see the tombs of kings.
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Next, Nazaré, where we just looked around at the ocean. It is a very pretty spot, and is famous for surfing. The world record for surfing a single wave was set here by Garrett McNamara (not, as our tour guide told us, by Robert McNamara).
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Berlim pastries (essentially filled doughnuts). We go a pineapple filled one.
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Next, we stopped at the beautiful walled city of Óbidos. The only small inconvenience was that it was extremely crowded due to a medieval fair going on throughout July. There were people in costume, mostly as medieval lords and ladies, but some barbarians and other characters from the past. There was a costume rental, but we didn’t elect to dress up.
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Catherine’s Aunt Teri did take a picture with Tree Man, however.
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More pictures of the beautiful walled city.
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One of the major attractions in Óbidos is trying their famous sour cherry liqueur, called ginja. It is served here out of chocolate cups which you can then eat.
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The Princess of Óbidos. Flower crowns were readily available throughout the city. They are made from real flowers, including lavender, and smell very nice.
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Back in Lisbon for dinner. We went with Catherine’s parents and her Aunt Teri. We went to a delicious Italian restaurant.

Posted by danielcatherine 02:01 Archived in Portugal Tagged basilica cherry pineapples john anthony katie walled_city princess lavender teri fatima óbidos ginja berlim mass nazare mcnamara flower_crown Comments (3)

Portugal Day 3: Adventures and Resting

sunny 80 °F

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A welcome sight: our room in Lisbon after our long journey! Before we could get there, we had to wait in a very long customs line. Then, when we finally got through the line, we couldn’t find our bags on any of the carousels. Eventually, another passenger from our flight (actually the family that had sat behind us) found theirs: it had been on the first carousel, but had been removed to allow the bags for a flight from Luanda. We got the shuttle to our hotel, and checked in and enjoyed the free breakfast.
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The very steep street that our hotel is on. This little barrier slides down to allow drivers with the right card to get through, then slides back up.
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We went to mass right down the street at the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Encarnação.
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It is a beautiful church. The mass was rather quick and simple, but the surroundings were so beautiful that it enhanced the entire experience.
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Another beautiful church, right down the street from the one we went to. There are several right in this area.
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We visited the oldest continuously-operating bookstore in the world, Bertrand. It has been in operation since 1732. Most of the books are in Portuguese (understandably enough). There is a little cafe in the back of the rather cavernous bookstore.
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An exterior view of the bookstore, with blue tile walls.
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We bought one book, and plan to learn enough Portuguese to read it to our children one day.

It was nice to browse the store, but we were very tired already. We stopped by a little bakery and bought some pastel de nata and some whole wheat rolls (pão integral in Portuguese. Catherine says she agrees that it is integral for daily life) and then went back to the hotel and rested for a few hours.

We got up at around 8PM, and then went out for dinner. The man at the hotel told us about the Time Out Mercado, essentially a gigantic food court with a wide variety of options. It is located in the old fish market near the river. We decided to walk down there and see what looked good.
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Lisbon is a very hilly city. A lot of people say it is similar to San Francisco, although it feels somewhat different.
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A tiny door along the way.
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The Mercado. There are tons of restaurant stands around a center area. In the center are bars selling drinks and tables for customers.
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A spicy diavola pizza and two Super Bock beers, the other major Portuguese beer maker.
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Dessert: Catherine got salted caramel with peanut and honeydew ice cream, and Daniel got passionfruit.
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The streets in Lisbon.
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A monument.
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They seem to have very large insects here.
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The Bica hill, home of the famous Bica tram.
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The construction of some of the buildings.
After dinner we grabbed a drink right near our hotel, and then headed back to get some rest before
heading out to explore more of the country tomorrow.

Posted by danielcatherine 17:33 Archived in Portugal Tagged church ice cream books nata sleep dinner pizza bookstore mercado bakery mass bica pastel_de_ Comments (4)

Hawaii Day 6: Exploring the Island

semi-overcast 84 °F

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We started our Sunday by going to the Traditional Latin Mass in Waihe'e, which was a little bit of a drive away from where we're staying. It was nice to see a different part of the island, and the people we talked to afterwards were very friendly. It is an extremely small community. Across the street, there was a warning about some rather dangerous dogs, but thankfully we didn't encounter them.
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After we left, we went to Tasty Crust, a diner in Wailuku. It was an interesting, small place. The clientele seemed to be almost all local, and most people obviously already knew each other. Nevertheless, the service was friendly and the food was delicious.
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We had banana pancakes, linguiça, and a biscuit. Katie and Anthony got omelettes, and we all split a piece of macadamia nut pie for dessert. Everything was excellent.
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We then went on a hike to see some ancient petroglyphs. We parked near the general store, and then hiked along the trail until we got to the cliffs where they were. It was very hot as we hiked, but we persisted until we reached our destination.
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The petroglyphs. These were close to the road, and may have been faked, but looked a lot like the ones we saw at the actual site.90_C1AB3D1A-4..B9B8381F500.jpg90_E6A8980C-B..61EDDB31976.jpg90_F8974F8D-1..2926D207933.jpg90_5EBF7DA0-0..4CDDF41ADE2.jpg
The definite petroglyphs. These apparently tell a story, and we were able to identify several human figures holding various objects, as well as what appeared to be a canoe. The information card explained the glyphs but didn't say what the story was.
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More of the area around the glyphs.
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We had a great time hiking!
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Found this by the side of the road. The perfect souvenir? But it probably would be hard to bring it home...we left it by the side of the road.
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Post-hike shave ice!
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We then sat at a table downstairs overlooking the ocean and played cards for a while.
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We ended the evening at Mulligan's, an Irish pub in Wailea. There was live music, which was vaguely Irish (they played a couple Pogues songs amid mainstream pop and rock). The food was very good, and we had a great time.
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Posted by danielcatherine 02:04 Archived in USA Tagged church music hike pie irish brunch petroglyphs latin cards pancakes bread wailea tasty mass waihe'e wailuku crust Comments (0)

Ireland Day 14: Cork, Youghal, Cashel

overcast 64 °F

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The view from the kitchen of the house where we stayed. A beautiful north Co. Cork landscape.
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We drove through Bweeng again on our way to Cork. This is the pub.
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St. Peter and Paul's Church, Cork. This was an absolutely beautiful church. We went to a Traditional Latin Mass here. It was a low mass, and not very long, but it was beautiful and the building was so incredible. We also got an excellent parking space right in front of the church, and went to lunch right nearby. Cork City is a little bit crowded and hard to navigate, but it was pretty and we were glad to see it during our trip.
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The outside of the church.
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After leaving Cork we drove to the town of Youghal. Daniel's parents went there and highly recommended it to us. We went to the museum and drove around the town a little.
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So is the group called Batty and they're playing tonight? Or is it called Batty Tonight?
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More pictures of Youghal. It was once one of the most important harbors in Ireland. It reminded us a lot of New England, mostly because it had an intriguingly similar history involving puritans, witch trials, etc.
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More of Youghal.
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Some sights along the road to the Rock of Cashel.
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We arrived at the Rock of Cashel just before it closed. The staff seemed eager to lock the doors, so we were lucky to get in. We went to the museum first.
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Cashel was both an ecclesiastical and political site. It was the capital used by Brian Boru, and before him, by the Eoghanacht rulers. It was also the site of a cathedral (to is day the diocese is called The Diocese of Cashel and Emly, even though the cathedral is in Thurles.) There is thus a great variety of buildings and artifacts here.
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The saddest thing about these ruins is that they don't have to be ruins. If history had gone differently, this could still be a thriving cathedral, with masses being said and people traveling to see the historic church. It lasted for centuries being used that way, and churches just as old are still in use in other countries. These were part of a patrimony that was sadly stolen from the people.
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More pictures from the Rock.
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And some more. It's a beautiful place.
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Some pictures of us at the Rock of Cashel.
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It was extremely windy there that day. It was very difficult to walk around without being blown off-course, and it made Daniel's allergies really bad. Still, it was a nice day to see the ruins with no rain.
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This monument is visible for miles around. It is only when you walk behind it that you realize...
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...that it used to be a cross! It would have been incredibly huge as a cross. Unfortunately, without a guide we don't know if it was wind or human action that blew it down.
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In the gift shop, Catherine tried on this cloak. She said she wishes that cloaks were a more socially acceptable thing to wear. Unfortunately, the €500 price tag prevented her from doing her part to bring back the cloak. (Also, she wondered if daggers were a necessary accessory with cloaks.)

We went to dinner at a pub called Brian Boru's, where people were watching a darts competition, and the Italian waiter kept promising the owner that he would bring in Italians, then delivering on his promise (he must have brought in at least four Italians while we were eating there.) Only after we finished eating did we find out there was another side, which was a restaurant with live music. It was a nice dinner. We then set off on our drive to our next AirBnB, which was near Athlone and especially close to the ruins at Clonmacnoise, which we were very excited to see.
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Some pictures of the sunset along our way. We arrived at our AirBnB on the Pilgrims' Road, and met our hosts who also had large dogs, had a farm, and the husband was named Joseph. We had a nice conversation with them, then went to our room and went to sleep.

Posted by danielcatherine 12:53 Archived in Ireland Tagged history ruins church museum cathedral dogs farm cross latin wind athlone joseph cork mass cashel clonmacnoise rock_of_cashel bweeng dromohane youghal Comments (0)

Day 12 - It Isn't Manageable

rain 60 °F

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Started off the day with a Traditional Latin Mass in Victoria. It was very nice, and the church was simple but pretty.

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After that we walked along the beach, at a spot suggested by our host. It was beautiful.

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One of the many horse-drawn carriage tours in Victoria going by.

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Eat More: an interesting toffee candy.

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Some views from the ferry. There are a lot of bald eagles in the islands between Vancouver Island and the mainland. At one point, we saw about ten of them flying around near one tree.

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Our last ferry ride for this trip!

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Driving in to Vancouver.

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Our studio in Vancouver. It is yet another great place found through Airbnb.

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View of the city from our room. This is our first real "city center" accommodation, as our other places have all been rural or suburban.

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Nando's Chicken. Apparently this is a chain, but we don't have them in California so it is a "new thing" to try. It is a Portuguese-African restaurant. When we asked about the spicy rice to determine how spicy it is, the waitress said it is "not manageable." We managed just fine.

The mashed potatoes are very authentically Portuguese, exactly what you would get at a traditional Portuguese Thanksgiving dinner in Hollister.

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The beautiful city of Vancouver at night. We walked around a bit after dinner, and it is very pleasant, though much more urban than Victoria was.

Note to Readers: with this entry, we are now caught up to the current day. Expect an entry about tomorrow tomorrow, and, assuming we have internet, we should be able to blog almost every night.

Posted by danielcatherine 01:00 Archived in Canada Tagged victoria traditional church urban city vancouver chicken studio african ferry latin management portuguese mass nando's Comments (1)

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